The Barolo Wars. This matters for collectors because it directly affects what’s in your glass.
Starting in the 1980s, a group of young winemakers — led by Elio Altare and the Voerzio brothers — looked at Bordeaux and Burgundy and said: why are we still making wine the old way?
They started using French oak barrels called barriques. Shorter fermentations. Modern techniques. The wines were darker, richer, and more immediately approachable. The critics loved them. Parker loved them.
The traditionalists pushed back hard. Bartolo Mascarello famously made a label that read “No Barrique, No Berlusconi.” He said this was destroying the identity of Barolo.
As a collector, you need to know where a producer falls on that spectrum — because it affects how the wine ages. Traditional Barolo needs more time but lasts longer. Modern Barolo drinks easier young, but the longevity is debated.
Full Italy collector’s guide on the channel.
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