Domaine des Baumard is my favorite producer by virtue of their Savennieres and Coteaux du Layon alone – even though my introduction to their work was in reading about their Quarts de Chaume! Brutal to find locally, it was only through WineBid that I was finally able to source an example with a bit of age on it (my Chenin Blanc preference). Knowing I would be visiting the Domaine itself soon, finally decided to open this 375. Bit of additional background – Quarts de Chaume is a tiny, 40 hectare appellation on the Loire River, the only Grand Cru in the valley (although in 2011, so not yet when this wine was made) – and of course, 100% Chenin Blanc, infected with botrytis. Baumard, famously, do not use oak in their process – this wine ferments and ages in stainless steel only! Stored at 50, popped and poured – enjoyed over the course of two hours.
Visually, a medium amber color in the glass. I could tell holding up the bottle to the light that it was a little more bronze than I expected – I feared a bit of oxidation. Slightly-raised cork (about 3/32", 2mm) came out easily enough with an Ah-so.
On the nose – well, someone shoved an apple pie in my face! Some slight oxidative notes – bruised apple, that walnut nuttiness I'm familiar with – but also heaps of strong fresh honey, golden raisins. As it warms and gets some air, orchard fruit pastries, baking spices, and fresh crispy pie crust. I was expecting floral notes, but picked none up.
On the palate, light to medium mouthfeel with just a decent bit of viscosity, nothing like a chewy Coutet Barsac, for example. The acidity remained just shy of gripping, alongside an imperceptible 12.5% alcohol. A lengthy finish full of apples, nuts, and baking spices for that warm apple pie feel.
I couldn't help but feel that, due to the color and cork condition, this may have gotten more air at some point than it should by this point in its lifespan. Some of the sherry-esque notes leaned more towards oxidation than aged Chenin Blanc in my opinion, and I believe I didn't get the best example of this bottling that I could have – all the moreso when I look at the 270 other notes and find few similar experiences. Fortunately, by now, I've returned from Baumard with three other vintages to try – 2007, 2011, & 2014 – straight from their own cellars, so the provenance there will be unbeatable! I'm looking forward to opening one up soon and comparing that to my notes here!
by JJxiv15