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A fascinating tasting through the extensive range of Hirakawa Winery in Yoichi, founded in 2015 by Atsuo Hirakawa. He brings an extraordinary French pedigree to Yoichi, having worked at Domaine Leflaive, Château Lafleur, and Château Cheval Blanc before establishing his own winery in 2015.

Today, his estate encompasses 21 hectares of farmland, including 13.5 hectares planted with vines. Hirakawa has an unconventional labeling philosophy. Inspired by Burgundy, he deliberately omits grape varieties, focusing instead on terroir and the individual personality of each wine.

Names such as Solitude, Espérance, Pensées, Dualité and Prestance evoke emotions and ideas rather than varieties. My two favorites were Pensées and Prestance! Each cuvée is conceived to express a particular character, with a strong emphasis on harmony with Japanese food.

Tasting across his range revealed an impressive diversity of styles, textures and personalities. A thoughtful, ambitious approach that adds another dimension to Hokkaido’s emerging wine identity.

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