Hi everyone! I recently acquired this incredible set of Colares wines from Garrafeira Nacional:
• 1965 Viúva Gomes (Tinto/Ramisco)
• 1969 Viúva Gomes (Branco/Malvasia)
• 1984 Companhia Vinícola do Norte (Branco)
I’m planning a dinner with friends who usually drink high-end Bordeaux. I know Colares is a completely different beast—famous for its 'chão de areia' (sand soil) and high acidity—but I’ve never tried bottles this old.
My questions for the experts here:
Given the excellent fill levels, is it worth opening them all together for a vertical tasting, or are they past their prime?
Will guests who love Bordeaux appreciate the austerity and salinity of an old Ramisco, or will it be too much of a shock?
Any specific tips on aeration? I'm afraid the 1965 might collapse if decanted for too long.
I’d love to hear your thoughts before I pull the corks!
by You_Rough
2 Comments
1. If they are stored well, they should absolutely be alive yes. I’ve had 1934 Viuva Gomes Tinto twice, both times it had real fruit and tannin, and benefited from a 2+ hour decant
2. I think so yes, if the guests love traditional old-school left bank Bordeaux. I think the nose can be quite similar, although the Colares may be lighter on the palate, and probably lower ABV.
3. Again, 1934 did not collapse, either time. It needed the decant, sorely.
They’re most likely in good condition, yes. These wines are extremely difficult to kill, think Barolo (if lighter) for reds and something vaguely similarly resilient for white, perhaps top Vouvray Sec. I don’t know if GN sources exclusively from producers, but I can tell you they source many older wines ex chateau and several Colares producers keep a stock of archival vintages like this they slowly sell off each year.
If your guests love Bordeaux from the 60s, they’ll love these. If they only love 2019s and 2022s – perhaps 2015 and 2009 – then less so. Again, comparisons with mature Nebbiolo of a similar vintage are apt for Ramisco.
Open the wine, see how it is. If it presents oxidative, drink. If it presents reductive, let it aerate. General advice, but always applies.
Do visit sometime! Stunning place, easily accessible from Lisbon and if you’re there in warmer months experiencing the temperature drop from Lisbon to Sintra to the coast is really something.