Laura Calder takes timeless dishes and adds French touches to each; Turkey Paupillettes with chestnuts and brussel sprouts; French mashed potatoes; an exquisite sardine platter; a fresh blueberry tart.
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The French way is always to buy local and to buy in season so even when I’m not in France that’s exactly how I buy I buy things at they very Peak and then if I want them French I just frenchify I’m making blueberry tart fresh berries just
Held together with a sauce of their own on a creamy base turkey poette with chestnuts and Brussels sprouts in one pan French mashed potatoes pureed with Bay infused milk and plenty of butter and Chris’s sardines platter my friend Chris’s sardines on toast but luxury sardines on toast otherwise all local ingredients
About to become French making the time again seeing the signs again come over come over and we’ll meet again da da da I just love a French aesthetic I don’t know what they do it’s so effortless it’s just some little thing and they make whatever they do distinctly
French I can never put my finger on it quite but it fascinates me so I’m trying that today frenchify all my food starting with blueberry pie it’s going to be blueberry tart when I’m done with It for a perfect Tor shell you need to weigh the pastry down while it bakes at least at the beginning you’re weighing down the bottom but you’re also holding up the sides it’s crucial otherwise the whole thing sinks down it’s very frustrating so just go out and buy some
Beans and make a pretty bean pot and just have them ever at the Ready So that needs 10 or 15 minutes or so and then you can take the beans out and just finish it so the bottom cooks too because it doesn’t go back in now my filling the French often put a pastry cream in the bottom of fruit tarts but I
Have something a little simpler than that clean up my mess If This Were purely French it would be a pastry cream under the fruit but this is much lighter this is fresh cream cheese about a cup of it and just a little creeme fresh just
To loosen it up like a/4 cup cup or so you don’t want it runny just loosened a bit because the cream cheese can be quite stiff and some sugar not too much sugar either the French don’t like things too sweet 2 tsp of sugar and just a little bit of vanilla
Now this is my trick with the Berries you need about half a cup of red current jelly and a little water just to melt down and not be so thick so I’m just dissolving the jelly and what it’s going to do is just hold the berries together once the shell is set and you
Take the beans out and put it back into finish at a lower temperature 350 I think it’s okay needs about 10 minutes More just getting the blueberries is ready so then you just take your melted jelly and pour it on the fresh berries and then this will reset once it’s sitting on the tart and you chill it a bit make some nice and glossy too now I just need my to Shell there so then once it’s cool enough not to melt the cheese mixture just put in a thin layer on the bottom and then these glossy berries just tumble in on Top that looks French doesn’t it beautiful I’m just going to chill it a little bit so that the jam sets perfect to go with my dinner in one Pan come over come over and we’ll meet again I’m putting a French spin on things that aren’t French to begin with this is squash puree which I made because it’s going to go with an entire turkey dinner made in one sauté Pan this is turkey poetes with brussels sprouts and chestnuts now these are slices of turkey breast so you just cover them with plastic and then you want to pound them into a hand shape really now Stuffing first an onion of course a little Oil just keep an eye on your onions they should just be soft not colored also in the stuffing is more turkey it’s turkey stuffed turkey this is ground turkey let’s crumble that into a bowl now if you use turkey and don’t loosen it up with something it can be
Quite compact I mean turkey or pork or anything so some breadcrumbs we’ll just give it some breathing space and completely UNF French but I couldn’t resist putting it in Sage same with the Herbs salt and pepper then just move the onions down this way now just mix that together okay now this water is going so I’m just going to blanch my brussels sprouts little salt now for these little bundles I’m just going to lay them flat salt and pepper on the meat so just take
A ball sized amount of stuffing put it in the center of the meat and then wrap the meat all around it you need three little pieces of string for each one okay once the brussel sprouts are very close to being perfectly tender you can drain them come back to
Those now for the real Cooking bacon I’m cutting little lardon slivers of Bacon talk in Frozen and we’ll meet again come over come over and we’ll meet again now these are going right in the Bacon Fat I just took the bacon out for now cuz it’s done and I’m just Browning these okay once the packages have color cognac to De glaze about a/4 of a cup
And then boil it down to about a tablespoon or so reduces really quickly and then chicken stock about a cup bacon goes back in then they just need about 15 minutes minutes so then add the Brussels sprouts just for the last 5 minutes the other final festive ingredient chestnuts these were vacuum
Packed you can get them in a can too but make sure you don’t get Sweet now don’t forget to squash okay it’s two pots lovely little cushions and a little bit of everything chestnuts and brussel sprouts it’s so Savory fantastic now you’re going to think I’ve absolutely lost it but next I’m going to get very French with a tin of sardines there’s a certain nonchalant that I
Admire in the French they can take a pair of flamboyant glamorous high heeled shoes and wear them like they’re just flip-flops and they can take something humble like a tin of sardines and make it Regal really I was at a very nice dinner party once and my friend Chris
Served tin sardines as a first course and it was so great I’m copying my friend Chris is the one who got me on to the Sardine shop with all the fancy sardines of course they have to be really good so it’s all about how you shop can’t just be any old sardine or
Any old baguette has to be a good one then you get compliments Paris is full of specialty shops and this one specializes in tinned sardines all these sardines I’m just trying to figure out what to get because it’s nothing like tin sardines in a grocery store but what makes these so Special only fresh fish only just fished and made in 24 hours right after fishing you can get them with uh a little bit of hot pepper you can get them with a lemon in it or you can get plain oils you can get um this one’s in
Butter even and they all taste a little bit different so you can have a whole tasting of sardines and it’s very Special olive oil on top drizzle drizzle and the oven’s at 400 I just want them lightly golden I don’t want them rock hard I just want them crunchy crunchy on the outside and little squishy inside still now and these are the sardines I brought back all the way from Paris I’ll
Take two they last years too first though I also want some lemons They are nice little lemon wedges now my Toast now here’s how he served his dish So you don’t take them out of the tin because the tins show that you bought them at these amazing sardine shops these are the white wine ones and then nice hot toast get piled all around and there’s one more very very important ingredient butter unsalted unpasturized and Cold Tada and I want to try one of these white wine Ones add a little squirt of course you’re supposed to have a glass of wine nice with the wine can’t get too fancy about it in fact since I’m making the low brow High I think I will make mashed potatoes the French way I think making food French doesn’t necessarily have to do with importing Dion mustard and faga and all that kind of thing it’s more about a sensibility and applying techniques to whatever ingredients you have around potatoes are not strictly French although they eat a lot of them we make mashed potatoes
But not the way they Do the French don’t make mashed potatoes so much as they make puree de P which is a really puree mashed potato with lots of milk and cream salt in the water potatoes in the water milk and butter of Course and I’m going to heat that with some flavorings bay leaf and a garlic clove and maybe a bit of Time so the milk just comes to a boil don’t let it boil all over the place and then you leave it to infuse for 10 minutes and that gives extra flavor to the Potatoes once the potatoes are really tender which these are drain them I’m peeling them now because that way they stay less watery actually the Skin’s just come right off and now my favorite toy well one of them a food mill and here’s how this works is stick
It right on top of your pot you can’t put potatoes in a blender obviously because they turn to glue but they go very nicely through one of these any little bits of skin left on the potato won’t go through so you get just puree it’s amazing how much four little potatoes
Makes now for the fun bit the good stuff4 Cup and then once the milk is boiling back to Boiling you just beat in a little at a time until you have a smooth creamy Puree just look the texture of This There serves one I don’t always make French things but I like applying French techniques to ingredients that you can find anywhere and I like taking local recipes and applying a little French touch I made a blueberry tart fresh berries just held together with the sauce of their own on a creamy
Base turkey poette with chestnuts and Brussels sprouts in one pan French mashed potatoes pureed with Bay infused milk and plenty of butter and Chris’s sardines platter my friend Chris’s sardines on toast wonder what would happen if I applied French techniques to say whoopy pies or tacos what do you think a Frenchman
Would do with a taco H that’s going to keep me up all night W w

2 Comments
Nice thanks will deffinetly try the French method of mashed potatoes, allways tought to peal first but in England mash is made with king Edward's thiker skin than yours shown. Fresh cream cheese? Not sure that it is available in Cincinnati, but we have one fromagarie so might try.
I've had a jar of Really Good Sardines on my shelf for a while just trying to think of the best way to eat them. Now I know!