Presented on 3/15/22, this was the first of two educational sessions for the Commanderie de Bordeaux, based on The Science of Wine, 3rd Ed. by Jamie Goode. In the introduction, Chee Chow began by discussing several enduring myths connecting terroir and the flavor of wine, especially the idea that elements of soil and rock, absorbed by the vine’s roots and transported to the grapes, can lead to impressions of fossils, burnt match, or minerality. Although largely debunked, the importance of such mythology to wine culture is readily acknowledged. Raj Dev presented the science behind some of these myths, including the role of ionized nutrients vs. neutrally-charged salts, the vastly different taste thresholds for minerals found in wine vs. mineral water, and the importance of clay (smectite, in particular) in maintaining hydric stress. Rick Shepro then reviewed the opinions of several important wine authorities and authors, who– while not always in agreement as to the reasoning– generally believe in the paramount importance of the vineyard’s soil/subsoil makeup in shaping the taste of wine. In Chee Chow’s closing remarks, he emphasized that scientific knowledge always raises new questions, and that the goal of this session was to increase accuracy, mindfulness and attention when tasting wine, as well as to develop a fuller vocabulary in communicating about it.
Session Two, on the Perception of Wine Flavors, will take place on 4/10/22.
Suggested tasting for Session One: your favorite St. Emilion grown on the limestone plateau, paying close attention to what might be perceived as “minerality” or an effect of terroir.