Aligote is the grape variety here, and this is a lovely wine. Pale in colour despite its age, it has an amazingly refined nose of matchstick minerality with some grapefruit and lime, and a subtle toasty note. The palate is so bright and sharp, with lovely acidity, but also lots of flavour: this isn’t simply an acid bomb. It’s just so layered and mineral and precise. Still incredibly taut and youthful: this shows the benefit of low pH, but also viticulture and winemaking that enables a low pH, early picked wine to have really nice flavours and concentration. So detailed and intense. Thrilling. 95/100
