Grosset, Polish Hill Riesling (Clare Valley, AUS) ’15- opening with a bang!! Impossibly fragrant, with a blast of lime, kiwi, pineapple cake, jasmine, and rubber. Ripe but extremely electric- reminded me of a great GG Riesling but much more lime-y. Showed closer to half its age. So captivating and immediate. My notes on this one are short, but it disappeared in a flash and it was so obvious in its presentation that I barely needed to stop and ruminate on it.
Pat Sullivan “Bull Swamp” Chardonnay (Gippsland, AUS)- more subtle, taking a second to find its footing after the Grosset, but wow- beautiful combination of richness and freshness. Some folks got an intense melon note- for me it was a bit closer to lemon curd with a good dose of cream, ultra-subtle butter notes, and gentle flinty reduction. Maybe even some white chocolate. Beautiful weight, creamy texture with plenty of bright acidity. This was one of my fave chards of the year when I tasted it last month (made a post on it). The Riesling was a bit of a bully just beforehand.
Bodega Chacra Chardonnay (Patagonia, AR) 2020- real beauty, but incredibly shy; we all agreed on this, and the kindest description might be “ephemeral”. Wisps of fresh cream, gentle caramel apple (for me the most “orchard fruit” of the chards but still very fresh)- quite different on the palate after the soft nose, this had a bolt of lingering bright acidity and cool petrichor, although it was still the least “mineral-driven” of them. It opened up a bit toward the end of the night, and especially with food- very pretty little brioche notes- but it never fully arrived. Most enjoyed it but the QPR was lacking at this stage, priciest in the lineup and didn’t live up to the hype. I think time will be its friend.
Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay (Margaret River, AUS) 2015- also showing half its age, and probably my favorite white of the tasting- possibly my WOTN. Deeper, more expressive and rich than the previous chards, but also *considerably* more about nuance and ornate complexity than I was expecting. Very, very serious wine. Leading with rich, toasty, nutty oak tones with candied almond, nougat, and pecan brittle, topped with rich (but fresh) fruit, lots of zippy fresh lemon, lime, grapefruit, pineapple, some white floral tones, then a pop of cool stony petrichor in the background. Tons of lingering acidity, too, better-integrated than in the Chacra. This felt really special to me. Almost like the vivid minerality and complex toastiness of great white Burgundy, but with the fruit and perfume of something from a warmer climate. Interestingly, one taster said it reminded him of Dagueneau Silex (one of the final bosses of Loire Sauv Blanc). I haven’t had Silex, but I’m intrigued.
Sadie Family “Skurfberg” Chenin Blanc (Citrusdal Mtn., South Africa) 2023- my first time trying one of Sadie’s whites. Incredibly captivating, and my favorite kind of Chenin at the moment: the kind that resembles great Chardonnay. Then again, it has that more obvious Chenin fruit richness, with crisp green (and some yellow) apples, beeswax, a tiny pinch of honeycomb, or maybe something even closer to honeycomb cereal. It was like honeycomb and corn pops, just without the sugar (this is fully dry Chenin) and with bits of ultra-fresh orchard fruit mixed in. Some beautiful oak and malo notes also, not as toasty/nutty, more like fresh cream and baking spices. This was gorgeous but I also have to admit that it was a bit shy, especially after the Leeuwin, and even with all the complexity now, she wants at least 3-5 years in bottle to spread her wings, if not 10.
NOTES CONTINUED IN NEXT COMMENT!
sid_loves_wine
NOTES CONTINUED- ONTO THE REDS
Pyramid Valley “Earth Smoke” Pinot Noir (Canterbury, NZ) 2020- really gorgeous way to start off the reds; I think my fave of the reds, although not the greatest QPR. Ethereal perfume of cool, dark, highly mineral-inflected black cherries and pleasantly smoky black tea- so fresh and airy with interesting complexity. The nose reminded me a bit of the great Kelley Fox Pinots- maybe a touch less detailed. I don’t know if I’d call it “Burgundian”, but if someone told me it was a great 1er from a lighter vintage like 2021, I’d believe them. The palate was just a little weaker than the nose- certainly full of energy and flavor, although the tannins stuck out just a bit without food, and the finish wasn’t quite as long as I had imagined it might be. Beautiful wine with incredible nuance and elegance- maybe, again this needs some cellaring for the tannins to integrate, but I’d love to try this producer again.
Mac Forbes Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley, AUS) 2023- not just the obvious QPR winner across the board, but such a beautiful wine that a few folks said it was their favorite of all the reds, and it was one of two MUCH less expensive bottles than the rest. It was probably my second fave red, and easily my fave for the price. Just so immensely crushable, perfumed, lovely- bouncy cherry candy for days on the nose and palate, almost resembling a great Cru Beaujolais at times but with some genuinely interesting herbal/spiced complexity too, from the subtle stem inclusion. Electric acidity without feeling tart, and some solid structure with zero sense of rusticity. Both super-modern and charmingly old-school. I don’t think it reached the level of uniqueness or complexity of the Pyramid Valley, but it honestly came close- for one-third the price. I’ve had this exact wine twice now, and I’ve got to find his higher-tier bottlings.
Bass Philip “Old Vines” Estate Pinot Noir (Gippsland, AUS) 2022- we were really pumped to try this one also, especially with a huge fan of Fourrier (now the chief winemaker at Bass Philip) in the house. TBH, I struggled with this one a bit; definitely the most disappointing for me, especially regarding QPR. At first I thought it might have been “off”- the fruit was so ripe and heavy that it almost had a raisinated quality, not “cooked” but starting to approach that vibe. Dense, fat, half-dried black cherry on both nose and palate with some weighty tannic heft. Surprising acidity for that style, but not really energetic or precise- felt almost heavy-handed. I was surprised to find that our Fourrier fanatic said it reminded him of Fourrier- it felt like 8x as ripe as any of the Fourrier I’ve been lucky to try up to this point. It definitely improved a bit with time, becoming slightly less raisin-y and showing some really interesting cured meat notes, but for me it never became delicious, just somewhat more complex. Curious to try other Bass bottles to see if the profile is similar…probably would start with the less-pricey Bin 17k first.
Laberinto, “Arcillas” País (Maule Valley, Chile) 2022- another fantastic QPR bottle alongside the Mac Forbes, and just barely the least expensive in the tasting. Not the same revelatory quality as the Forbes for us, but still absolutely delicious- everyone loved it. Plenty of fresh, aromatic raspberry and strawberry on both nose and palate, oodles of pretty fruit with zero sense of excessive ripeness or heat. I don’t think there was much going on beyond the fruit, but one could say there was a pinch of dry earth, or maybe some kind of garden-flowers vibe. It didn’t have the raw presence of the surrounding wines but stood its ground just fine. Great to have something like this represented, more of a specialty grape, rather than only southern-hemisphere interpretations of international varieties.
Porseleinberg Syrah (Swartland, SA) 2016- beautiful expressive of rugged, old-school, genuinely Rhône-esque Syrah- felt close to lightly-aged Cornas, or even Hermitage, although definitely one from a hot vintage. I had tried this bottle only a couple months ago- a bit better then, very savory, peppery, meaty, tarry, smoky black fruit with good freshness and precision, especially for the age. It was similar at this tasting, but the age felt more apparent this time around, with the black fruit showing a bit more dried or leathery. Love the deep savory complexity here, but I wonder if it’s in a “dumb” stage right now- I could see it being more captivating either earlier in its life, when the fruit was more present, but also continuing to age REALLY well, with tons of structure left, and allowing time for the umami-rich tertiary notes to really expand. This feels like a 15-20 year wine, very austere at this stage. Again, I could also see it being incredible right at release…but that’s just me.
Torbreck “The Factor” Shiraz (Barossa Valley, AUS) 2016- I’ve had far more experience with huge, ripe, colossal Barossa Shiraz like this than the others at the tasting; not the kind of wine I crave all the time of course but when the time is right, I find they have few equals. Even with it lacking much of the subtlety or complexity possible in more nuanced syrahs, a number of folks preferred it to the Porseleinberg at this stage. For me it was absolutely fantastic- just a huge warm hug of spiced black fruit, darker than black, like blackberry compote with a deep well of mocha and cinnamon. Warming, but not hot, ripe as hell, but not cloying. The tannins are superfine, almost melted, and I think it commits to the bit perfectly, wearing the high-octane profile with grace and intent. I make no apologies for enjoying this stuff, and my favorite style of wine is a nuanced, acid-driven Pinot.
Cheval des Andes (Mendoza, AR) 2018- we opened this as a late pull, toward the end of the night. 70% Malbec, 30% Cab Sauv. Several were excited to give it a try, especially after learning about the associated Bordeaux Chateau. If I had originally planned to open it, I probably would have served it before the two syrahs- this is a rich, beautiful red, but notably more “high and tight” with more freshness and brightness than the previous two bottles. Not shy, but a bit coiled up- one taster said it reminded him of really good Red Mountain Cab and TBH I *absolutely* agree with that assessment. Very similar profile of ripe-but-fresh dusty black fruit, some dark red fruit also, and a big dose of cocoa powder. Picture chocolate-covered cherries and blueberries with chocolate, baking spice, and vague floral tones, and you’re getting there. Definitely one to cellar- beautiful wine and some folks preferred it to the syrahs- it’s just a bit coiled at this stage and deserves a good 5 years to blossom.
All in all, really fascinating tasting with some seriously delicious gems. Even my least faves were still interesting wines, and the best were truly special. I’ve had a really hard time deciding on my WOTN, but if I had to choose just one wine that I’d want to taste again at the same stage of its evolution, it’d be the Leeuwin Chard. Cheers!
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Grosset, Polish Hill Riesling (Clare Valley, AUS) ’15- opening with a bang!! Impossibly fragrant, with a blast of lime, kiwi, pineapple cake, jasmine, and rubber. Ripe but extremely electric- reminded me of a great GG Riesling but much more lime-y. Showed closer to half its age. So captivating and immediate. My notes on this one are short, but it disappeared in a flash and it was so obvious in its presentation that I barely needed to stop and ruminate on it.
Pat Sullivan “Bull Swamp” Chardonnay (Gippsland, AUS)- more subtle, taking a second to find its footing after the Grosset, but wow- beautiful combination of richness and freshness. Some folks got an intense melon note- for me it was a bit closer to lemon curd with a good dose of cream, ultra-subtle butter notes, and gentle flinty reduction. Maybe even some white chocolate. Beautiful weight, creamy texture with plenty of bright acidity. This was one of my fave chards of the year when I tasted it last month (made a post on it). The Riesling was a bit of a bully just beforehand.
Bodega Chacra Chardonnay (Patagonia, AR) 2020- real beauty, but incredibly shy; we all agreed on this, and the kindest description might be “ephemeral”. Wisps of fresh cream, gentle caramel apple (for me the most “orchard fruit” of the chards but still very fresh)- quite different on the palate after the soft nose, this had a bolt of lingering bright acidity and cool petrichor, although it was still the least “mineral-driven” of them. It opened up a bit toward the end of the night, and especially with food- very pretty little brioche notes- but it never fully arrived. Most enjoyed it but the QPR was lacking at this stage, priciest in the lineup and didn’t live up to the hype. I think time will be its friend.
Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay (Margaret River, AUS) 2015- also showing half its age, and probably my favorite white of the tasting- possibly my WOTN. Deeper, more expressive and rich than the previous chards, but also *considerably* more about nuance and ornate complexity than I was expecting. Very, very serious wine. Leading with rich, toasty, nutty oak tones with candied almond, nougat, and pecan brittle, topped with rich (but fresh) fruit, lots of zippy fresh lemon, lime, grapefruit, pineapple, some white floral tones, then a pop of cool stony petrichor in the background. Tons of lingering acidity, too, better-integrated than in the Chacra. This felt really special to me. Almost like the vivid minerality and complex toastiness of great white Burgundy, but with the fruit and perfume of something from a warmer climate. Interestingly, one taster said it reminded him of Dagueneau Silex (one of the final bosses of Loire Sauv Blanc). I haven’t had Silex, but I’m intrigued.
Sadie Family “Skurfberg” Chenin Blanc (Citrusdal Mtn., South Africa) 2023- my first time trying one of Sadie’s whites. Incredibly captivating, and my favorite kind of Chenin at the moment: the kind that resembles great Chardonnay. Then again, it has that more obvious Chenin fruit richness, with crisp green (and some yellow) apples, beeswax, a tiny pinch of honeycomb, or maybe something even closer to honeycomb cereal. It was like honeycomb and corn pops, just without the sugar (this is fully dry Chenin) and with bits of ultra-fresh orchard fruit mixed in. Some beautiful oak and malo notes also, not as toasty/nutty, more like fresh cream and baking spices. This was gorgeous but I also have to admit that it was a bit shy, especially after the Leeuwin, and even with all the complexity now, she wants at least 3-5 years in bottle to spread her wings, if not 10.
NOTES CONTINUED IN NEXT COMMENT!
NOTES CONTINUED- ONTO THE REDS
Pyramid Valley “Earth Smoke” Pinot Noir (Canterbury, NZ) 2020- really gorgeous way to start off the reds; I think my fave of the reds, although not the greatest QPR. Ethereal perfume of cool, dark, highly mineral-inflected black cherries and pleasantly smoky black tea- so fresh and airy with interesting complexity. The nose reminded me a bit of the great Kelley Fox Pinots- maybe a touch less detailed. I don’t know if I’d call it “Burgundian”, but if someone told me it was a great 1er from a lighter vintage like 2021, I’d believe them. The palate was just a little weaker than the nose- certainly full of energy and flavor, although the tannins stuck out just a bit without food, and the finish wasn’t quite as long as I had imagined it might be. Beautiful wine with incredible nuance and elegance- maybe, again this needs some cellaring for the tannins to integrate, but I’d love to try this producer again.
Mac Forbes Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley, AUS) 2023- not just the obvious QPR winner across the board, but such a beautiful wine that a few folks said it was their favorite of all the reds, and it was one of two MUCH less expensive bottles than the rest. It was probably my second fave red, and easily my fave for the price. Just so immensely crushable, perfumed, lovely- bouncy cherry candy for days on the nose and palate, almost resembling a great Cru Beaujolais at times but with some genuinely interesting herbal/spiced complexity too, from the subtle stem inclusion. Electric acidity without feeling tart, and some solid structure with zero sense of rusticity. Both super-modern and charmingly old-school. I don’t think it reached the level of uniqueness or complexity of the Pyramid Valley, but it honestly came close- for one-third the price. I’ve had this exact wine twice now, and I’ve got to find his higher-tier bottlings.
Bass Philip “Old Vines” Estate Pinot Noir (Gippsland, AUS) 2022- we were really pumped to try this one also, especially with a huge fan of Fourrier (now the chief winemaker at Bass Philip) in the house. TBH, I struggled with this one a bit; definitely the most disappointing for me, especially regarding QPR. At first I thought it might have been “off”- the fruit was so ripe and heavy that it almost had a raisinated quality, not “cooked” but starting to approach that vibe. Dense, fat, half-dried black cherry on both nose and palate with some weighty tannic heft. Surprising acidity for that style, but not really energetic or precise- felt almost heavy-handed. I was surprised to find that our Fourrier fanatic said it reminded him of Fourrier- it felt like 8x as ripe as any of the Fourrier I’ve been lucky to try up to this point. It definitely improved a bit with time, becoming slightly less raisin-y and showing some really interesting cured meat notes, but for me it never became delicious, just somewhat more complex. Curious to try other Bass bottles to see if the profile is similar…probably would start with the less-pricey Bin 17k first.
Laberinto, “Arcillas” País (Maule Valley, Chile) 2022- another fantastic QPR bottle alongside the Mac Forbes, and just barely the least expensive in the tasting. Not the same revelatory quality as the Forbes for us, but still absolutely delicious- everyone loved it. Plenty of fresh, aromatic raspberry and strawberry on both nose and palate, oodles of pretty fruit with zero sense of excessive ripeness or heat. I don’t think there was much going on beyond the fruit, but one could say there was a pinch of dry earth, or maybe some kind of garden-flowers vibe. It didn’t have the raw presence of the surrounding wines but stood its ground just fine. Great to have something like this represented, more of a specialty grape, rather than only southern-hemisphere interpretations of international varieties.
Porseleinberg Syrah (Swartland, SA) 2016- beautiful expressive of rugged, old-school, genuinely Rhône-esque Syrah- felt close to lightly-aged Cornas, or even Hermitage, although definitely one from a hot vintage. I had tried this bottle only a couple months ago- a bit better then, very savory, peppery, meaty, tarry, smoky black fruit with good freshness and precision, especially for the age. It was similar at this tasting, but the age felt more apparent this time around, with the black fruit showing a bit more dried or leathery. Love the deep savory complexity here, but I wonder if it’s in a “dumb” stage right now- I could see it being more captivating either earlier in its life, when the fruit was more present, but also continuing to age REALLY well, with tons of structure left, and allowing time for the umami-rich tertiary notes to really expand. This feels like a 15-20 year wine, very austere at this stage. Again, I could also see it being incredible right at release…but that’s just me.
Torbreck “The Factor” Shiraz (Barossa Valley, AUS) 2016- I’ve had far more experience with huge, ripe, colossal Barossa Shiraz like this than the others at the tasting; not the kind of wine I crave all the time of course but when the time is right, I find they have few equals. Even with it lacking much of the subtlety or complexity possible in more nuanced syrahs, a number of folks preferred it to the Porseleinberg at this stage. For me it was absolutely fantastic- just a huge warm hug of spiced black fruit, darker than black, like blackberry compote with a deep well of mocha and cinnamon. Warming, but not hot, ripe as hell, but not cloying. The tannins are superfine, almost melted, and I think it commits to the bit perfectly, wearing the high-octane profile with grace and intent. I make no apologies for enjoying this stuff, and my favorite style of wine is a nuanced, acid-driven Pinot.
Cheval des Andes (Mendoza, AR) 2018- we opened this as a late pull, toward the end of the night. 70% Malbec, 30% Cab Sauv. Several were excited to give it a try, especially after learning about the associated Bordeaux Chateau. If I had originally planned to open it, I probably would have served it before the two syrahs- this is a rich, beautiful red, but notably more “high and tight” with more freshness and brightness than the previous two bottles. Not shy, but a bit coiled up- one taster said it reminded him of really good Red Mountain Cab and TBH I *absolutely* agree with that assessment. Very similar profile of ripe-but-fresh dusty black fruit, some dark red fruit also, and a big dose of cocoa powder. Picture chocolate-covered cherries and blueberries with chocolate, baking spice, and vague floral tones, and you’re getting there. Definitely one to cellar- beautiful wine and some folks preferred it to the syrahs- it’s just a bit coiled at this stage and deserves a good 5 years to blossom.
All in all, really fascinating tasting with some seriously delicious gems. Even my least faves were still interesting wines, and the best were truly special. I’ve had a really hard time deciding on my WOTN, but if I had to choose just one wine that I’d want to taste again at the same stage of its evolution, it’d be the Leeuwin Chard. Cheers!