This week, we’re delving into modern French dining – away from the nation’s confines. We sit down with the founder of Bistro Freddie in London to find out why a wave of new French-inspired spots has been popping up throughout the city and beyond. Also in the programme: Charlotte McDonald-Gibson tells us about the role that haute cuisine plays in Washington and Gregory Scruggs is in Seattle to meet the man putting his own spin on Gallic classics.
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[Music]
hello and welcome to the menu Monaco
radio’s food and drink program I’m your
host Kela this week we’re delving into
modern French dining away from the
nation’s confines we visit the
restaurants drawing inspiration from
this most venerated of gastronomic
traditions all the while going well
Beyond Hot Cuisine coming up we sit down
with the founder of B Freddy and find
out why a wave of new French inspired
spots has been sweeping London and many
more cities besides there seems to be a
trend shifting back towards more
comfortable seating maybe and white
tablecloths and maybe people are eating
out slightly less so when they are going
out for dinner it wants to feel maybe
it’s a little bit more formal kind of
bit more of a treat also on the program
charlot McDonald Gibson tells us about
the special role that French restaurants
play in Washington DC I think DC has
beautiful reflections of French wein you
know and you can see it through through
this city very it’s alive here plus
Gregory Scruggs is in Seattle to meet
the man putting his own spin on GIC
classics all that here in a menu on
Monaco
[Music]
radio certain Cuisines have always been
well represented all around the world
most towns can count want at least one
Italian Japanese Chinese and of course
French restaurant on their address book
but for too many years French cuisine at
least abroad was associated with a
certain stuck upness all white starch
tablecloths and formal
service that’s not the version of French
food that Dominic hamy fell in love with
and that he’s referencing at Bistro
Freddy his new opening in East London
and he’s not the only one all around the
city many restaurats beside him have
decided it’s high time to find a modern
way to approach this Cuisine by
borrowing from its heartier most
unassuming aspects as its name suggests
Bistro Freddy is a place that pays
homage to that most beloved institution
of casual effortless French dining The
Bistro Ham’s version May feature red and
white tablecloths and handwritten menus
but it’s not trying to be a copycat of
Parisian horns there’s a British slant
on proceedings that ensures a connection
to its surroundings too Hamdi also runs
other successful modern European spots
around town including Crispin and bar
krispen so when we sat down in Studio I
was Keen to find out what Drew him to
lean French in this new project and what
is it that makes ayro truly ayro the
atmology of the word beastro is actually
when Paris was occupied by the Russians
they would go to kind of small eies and
bars and Shout beastro Bistro which
means quickly quickly in Russian so that
is the kind of the folklore behind the
atmology of the word but no one really
knows I think for beastro Freddy it’s
really the idea of a beastro for me
conures up ideas of really convivial
place which is not too pretentious
somewhere you can take your parents for
you know birthday or anniversary or
somewhere you can go with friends for a
slightly more lively dinner so it’s
really kind of the aesthetic the
atmosphere of somewhere that is
unpretentious somewhere you can go every
week and that’s classic Parisian Beast
thros for me are the you know that’s
kind of the starting point really well I
want to dive into Paris and into
frenchness because it’s my impression
that in the last few months let’s say
here in London there have been a Spate
of kind of French inspired French
leaning openings and your other
restaurants have a sort of European
flare to them but they’re not quite so
directly French in identity did you
deliberately want to make a place that
thought about French cuisine in a
different way and why do you think this
interest in French cuisine across the
board all of a sudden yeah absolutely I
think that there’s a couple of things
here we’ve seen in London a Spate of new
openings such as maon franois bushan Rin
obviously beastro Freddy and there seems
to be a trend shifting back towards more
comfortable seating maybe and white
table cloths and people going out for
dinner maybe people are eating out
slightly less so when they are going out
for dinner it wants to Fe feel maybe
it’s a little bit more formal kind of a
bit more of a treat I suppose for me
personally beastro Freddy is the latest
iteration of my personal food journey
and I think as I have matured a little
bit so have the restaurants that I’m
opening I think you can see that in
beastro Freddy compared to Crispen and
bar krispen which are you know their
small plate Concepts that have their
little bit more stripped back and
beastro Freddy is a bit more indulgent a
bit more luxurious and a bit more grow
up I think so let’s talk about small
plates do you think that we are moving
towards a world where people want to go
back a little bit to start a main
dessert their own plate of food in front
of them no sharing no Forks across a
table I think it depends really so
interestingly at beastro Freddy you
you’re encouraged to eat maybe a couple
of snacks for the table a starter reach
a main each and some sides but what
we’re seeing increasingly is actually
our demographics still want to eat in a
small plate style they want one of each
Main and they want to share all of that
across the table we maybe have a
slightly older demographic that are
coming to beastro Freddy who want that
stter M dessert form of dining so I
don’t think small plates are going
anywhere necessarily the dining Trends
from the guest point of view is one
thing but also at chisen and bar crisman
we really have a small plates concept
because the kitchens are so small and so
it really works for that size building I
think for bigger restaurants and
brasseries it’s easier to deliver a St
main dessert concept but typically in
London most restaurants are quite tight
on space so the small plates concept
where dishes come out as they’re ready
works logistically much better so I
think and rents definitely aren’t
getting any cheaper so I think we’ll
continue to see small plates continuing
through the eating Trends in
London let’s go back to France in a
sense that I’m interested in finding out
why you are attracted to French cuisine
and whether you think that in this way
of looking at it there is a sense that
French cuisine needs looking at from an
outsider’s point of view needs
refreshing in certain respects perhaps
in its iterations abroad where is French
cuisine moving to when it’s not in
France and does it need updating yeah I
mean uh French cuisine is the basis for
many other Cuisines that we can kind of
see from as The Godfather or or the
Godmother of European cooking I’d say
specifically for beastro Freddy it’s
really a mix of English British French
food it’s not one or the other so a few
examples is one of the snacks is sausage
with brown sauce which is very typical
English condiment and then alongside
that we’ve got an eggs mayonnaise which
is something you might see on most
beastro menus in France likewise on the
mains we have a big pie I think at the
moment it’s chicken Mushroom in leak but
we’ve also got a bavet steak with a
peppercorn sauce so for our concept
specifically it’s a love letter to
France but it also wants to feel
nostalgic and respectful of their
Cuisine whilst maybe making it our own
you know we love snails very French dish
but we’re putting them on a on a grilled
flatbread with Tagan butter something
you wouldn’t see in France so we’re
taking inspiration really there was a
long period in London where French
restaurants certainly weren’t on Trend
and I think there’s an element of people
just really wanting to be having a sense
of comfort when they go out for dinner
and French food is at its heart the most
comforting food and it’s exciting for
diners in the UK to re-explore what
French cuisine is and maybe post brexit
we’re missing our French friends
slightly aren’t we just but I think it’s
interesting because there is a certain
sense of old school and vintage flare to
some of this these French Classics right
you know you’ve mentioned the Nails I’ve
seen on some of the kind of your sample
menus the parfait obviously plenty of
taragan I’m interested in the fact that
you say that you also do canipes cuz
canipes are so kind of 70s cocktail
party right how do canipes live in the
modern world is it kind of a bit of a
throwback and what’s a great canopy yeah
I think there’s an element of nostalgia
that’s really it’s just really exciting
to people at the moment and whether
that’s retro canipes or sticky tofe
pudding that we’ve got on the menu which
is something that you might have at
school so there’s definitely an element
of nostalgia and throwback that is
exciting and we can see that across
culture really from what’s on Netflix at
the moment and through everything
there’s just there’s definitely a shift
back towards uh slightly more classic
more nostalgic things across culture are
you a nostalgic kind of guy when Food
Matters and in general I think food
evokes so many emotions and if you can
go into a restaurant and can have dishes
that are transportative that is such an
exciting thing you know going to the
restaurant curtains closed behind you
you’re transported away from whatever
your week has brought so far and you’re
immersed in a world that has so many
touch points that has been thought about
by designers restorators what’s coming
through the speakers what’s on the plate
the instruments you’re eating with the
glasswar there are so many elements
within a restaurant and I think if you
can have a fully immersive experience
where being transported to another time
flavors that will take you back to your
childhood that’s such a powerful thing
is there a dish on the menu that does
that to you like that’s connected to a
specific memory I think snails
particularly my parents my grandmother
is from elas there’s lots of French
influence in my house growing up my mom
is German they used to have dinner
parties and cook snails every single
dinner party and you know we’d set the
table with all the different glass wear
the specific be helping prepare had the
the snails in specific pots and that was
1990s Yorkshire so it was quite
exotic pushing the boat out truly so I
think for that reason snails just they
evoke another time and there’s a sense
of childhood and playfulness within
that let’s go back to how you got into
this from snails in 1990s Yorkshire how
did you get into the hospitality
business what led you to it and what led
you eventually to The Many Adventures
That kind of transformed into Crispin
yeah it’s not a linear story really and
I think like many restorers or
hospitalit Arians I fell into it by
mistake really I was studying languages
in London I just finished a year abroad
in Vienna and melier and I um started a
scotch egg store with a friend so we
were kind of cooking Scotch eggs and our
student flat we wanted a summer project
so we started a a scotch egg store on
baric Street in SoHo and from there we
went to bar Market started trading there
started wholesaling these Scotch eggs
and we did that for a couple of years
before opening a coffee shop on alwi so
just by The Strand our first bricks and
morar site and then that was when
speciality coffee was really hitting
London in a big way so we we were
following that Trend and really from
there just it’s been a natural
progression into Crispin and slightly
more immersive dining experiences and
I think postco crisen had been open for
a couple of years we started a wine
subscription service off the back of
that which was it was a great success we
were able to open bar krispen in SoHo
which was a more wine focused version of
what Crispen is so it’s really been
about creating Concepts that excite us
recognizing maybe what people want at
what times and following those those
habits and those patterns and I think at
the moment beastro Freddy is the latest
iteration of where I am as a restorator
and what I think people want to eat at
the moment that was Dominic Hamdi
speaking to me at midor
house even if most new French inspired
openings may be moving away from the
high-end standard haulk cuisine
restaurants have played a huge role in
shaping the course of global Gastronomy
and in certain contexts they can have a
specific very practical purpose as a
fundamental Center of global power
Washington DC has long relied on its
Bounty of formal French dining rooms in
the Diplomat scene these are places
where envoys and officials try to
impress their network over elaborate
lunches and dinners but Matt Conroy and
his wife Isabel Co wanted to Spotlight
another side of French dining in the US
capital their Modern neob Bistro Lutes
is now one of the top restaurants in the
city and no less of a place to take
someone you want to Dazzle Monaco’s
charlot McDonald Gibson headed to their
Outpost to find out
more we’re eating at Lutes and neoo in
Washington’s historic George ters
District you only need to look up for a
reminder of a more traditional French
dining experience a white tin roof is in
blazen with delicate Laurel reliefs and
above a doorway are two black and white
portraits of
Napoleon these are the few Throwbacks to
luta’s predecessor a crepery called Cafe
bonapart which featured all the
trappings of a more traditional French
dining with dark red menus and dishes
with names like Mulan Rouge today L is
free from such cliche with its clean
Decor of electric blue exterior exposed
brick unadorned marble tabletops and
antique mirrors against White Walls its
atmosphere is modern but intimate
exactly like the Parisian neob beos that
head cheaf Matt Conroy seeks to emulate
we cooked the food we we were inspired
to cook and poured the wines that we
enjoy the music’s a little different
there’s no white tablecloths I think
people have fun part of dining that I
don’t like is the stuffiness of it I
want to eat the same food that I could
eat in a stuffy restaurant but we could
all sit down we order a fun ball of wine
you’re a little loud you’re you know it
can be a little messy and everyone just
having a good time I I think for
restaurants it’s like for me it’s a
place to catch up with your friends and
and have a good time not sit there and
straight and not want to talk and like
that I I just don’t like that part of it
so I always say this is a restaurant
that like I want to eat at or we want to
eat at or like the music is what we want
and we just we stuck really true to that
and like it it paid off the food
seasonal and local ingredients prepared
in imaginative ways with a classic
French technique is drawing both crowds
and plaudits since a soft opening just
before the co pandemic lest has been
topping the lists of best restaurants in
DC and in 2022 it made it onto the New
York Times list of the 50 best
restaurants Nationwide while Lutes is
very much taking its cue from the new
generation of Parisian neob bistos like
chatu Bond and septin there is a long
tradition of French influence in the US
capital where the very lay out to the
streets is the creation of a Frenchman
Pierre Lon who mapped out Washington in
the late 18th century it’s an influence
which infuses the city says Lut Tessa’s
pastry chef Isabelle Co it’s inevitable
to walk around thec walk around the
roundabouts you know and and be reminded
of a European type of life so I think I
think DC has beautiful reflections of a
French Quine you know and you can see it
through through this city and very it’s
alive here and as a city of diplomats
lobbyists politicians and other Power
Players French cuisine has long played a
role in the deal making and networking
that defines the city says Matt French
food always has this kind of like for a
long time it was a little not stuffy but
it was like you know you had to sit up
straight and you had the white
tablecloth and you had that you know the
server is going to have a tux on or
jacket and it was uh if you wanted to
take someone out and kind of show off to
them it was you know you’re going to
order a big bottle of burgundy and like
have that experience and and it it it’s
a luxury it was that’s it had that feel
to it Jean Lou paladan brought Nel
Cuisine to the Watergate complex in
1979 and dozens of traditional French
dining establishments have plied
Washington’s great and good with mounds
of fora Stak fre and du G over the years
but until husband and wife team Matt and
Isabelle put liess on DC’s dining map
there was little sign of modern French
cuisine in the capital coming to DC and
especially in Georgetown saying to
people that we were opening a a beastro
and they came in and they didn’t see
those traditional dishes on the on the
menu it was definitely a shock we did
something I think different here and I
we flat out had people walk in and say
this isn’t going to work but it worked
perfectly Matt and Isabelle are both
trained in the classical French
techniques and bring that attention to
detail and respect for ingredients while
finding new ways to provoke and Delight
by creating modern and unexpected takes
on traditional French
cuisine Matt talks me through a new dish
on the menu a chicken mousse with Mor
and a source of marane so yeah what’s
happening here then what have you got on
the go here yeah so uh we got our
chicken necks that we’ve uh stuffed with
the chicken mousse so inside of there is
the mousse that has morels and some
herbs and stuff like that so again very
traditional but having fun with it and
then we have some first of the Season
asparagus sauce of marican that we made
with a lobster shells that we had from a
dish before so just really making sure
we’re using every part and you know very
seasonal and stuff so we’re going to
sear off the the chicken
um so we’re going to se it off all sides
to kind of get the skin crispy in the
oven and then we’ll finish uh with the
asparagus and SAU isab Bal meanwhile has
fun with the desserts less wanted to put
a cheese plate on the menu but cheese
after dinner is not a cultural Staple in
America and they only sold about one
platter a week so Isabelle created what
is now one of luta’s most popular
desserts honeycomb ice cream piled high
with comp cheese its tiny crystals
bringing to mind mounds of white
chocolate
representation it’s a honeycomb semi
Fredo it’s already pre Frozen we use egg
yolks egg whites and um heavy cream with
fold honeycomb on it that is a type of
caramel that we add baking soda once the
caramel become amber color so creates a
lot of bubbles it uh makes a very very
crunchy you can kind of hear it h it’s
good providing so we fold a lot of those
little pieces inside of the semi freto
freeze it h it all gets the flavor of it
and then on top of that we have more of
that honeycomb just so it has like extra
crunch I feel here in the us we love
crunchy crunchy as a part of the
ingredients and on top of that I have
some um comp cheese this one’s 18 month
aged um it has a really nice salinity on
it and sweetness so it makes it very
lightwe it kind of dissolve into your
mouth you know when you can even taste
like the salt of the cheese that I think
I think this way make really good
Justice to the cheese makers of this
particular compte it’s where did the
comp come from H comes from France
another another of those things that you
know as much as I like local uh stuff
and there’s incredible local cheeses
here at least in Pennsylvania or
Maryland I think I think French ises
frenches stops stop some of them to
accompany the menu of large and small
dishes is a wine list of organic and
biodynamic wines most of them sourced
from France the atmosphere in the dining
room is Lively intimate and convivial so
right here P Pon potatoes cooked in duck
fat creem fresh some golden aetric
caviar and then hamasa so we do a quick
cure on it we crust it with Nori finnel
and finel pollen you have an apricot gel
little bit of Noam and and Dill eat
these in any order you want I say use
your fingers to have fun Palm PES out
will be hot in the center so be careful
so our land tartar this land’s coming
out of Colorado it’s tossed around in a
fesa aoli c some egg yolk Jam a little
Sesame crumble um that’s made from
Sesame sunflower and Agave that’ll add
some crunch to it and then we have an
egg yolk jam and we have the fresh feta
and then a little bit of dill and mint
as
well tucked away on the shelves amidst
wine bottles and house plants are
unobtrusive nods to the restaurants
provenance a statue of Michelin Man a
Julia Child’s cookbook you may be close
to the heart of par and Washington but
the atmosphere is decidedly laid back in
European which is exactly how Matt and
Isabelle want it it gets loud and people
order the whole menu and it it feels
like that restaurant you want to eat at
it feels like a a restaurant it feels
like eating in it feels like eating in
France you know and it’s if if you meet
an in Paris if you eaten around in
France it’s impossible to not fell in
love with that sentiment and wanted to
recreate
[Music]
it Charlotte McDonald Gibson there this
is the
menu now it’s time for the week’s top
food and drink headlines here is
Monaco’s George
Ruskin the deputy mayor of Milan has
proposed a controversial regulation on
Late Night Takeaway food that will hit
the city’s beloved
galatas the plan aims to reduce noise in
Milan’s nightlife spots by forcing food
Outlets to close earlier this has caused
backlash locals argue that the proposal
will fail to solve the problem of noise
and will instead end the popular
tradition of late night ice cream with
the general election underway in India
businesses in Bengaluru have begun
offering free food and drink to
encourage people to cast their vote the
city has historically seen some of the
lowest voter turnout in the country
however there are hopes that firsttime
voters will be enticed to polling
stations by the prospect of free beer
dosers and milkshakes at venues across
the city in New York people are
reselling dinner reservations for the
city’s top restaurants for up to $1,000
for a two-top table mobile app
appointment Trader is at the Forefront
of this new trend and for some New
Yorkers selling reservations has become
a f time job genuine diners however have
become increasingly frustrated by
automated Bots that are driving up
prices on the platform those are the
week’s food and drink headlines now back
to
Kiara thanks George you’re listening to
the
menu now we head across the us all the
way to the West Coast to drop into
another restaurant with a fresh take on
all things GIC Lan in Seattle is the
brainchild of American Zach Overman and
French chef JJ proville the pair met in
a New York culinary scene before moving
cross country to make a new start with
the Abundant seafood and produce of the
Pacific Northwest with a name that means
urchin the restaurant is fronted by a
cheeky mascot a beer wearing cigarette
smoking garon with a look of studied
indifference it’s an obviously
self-conscious play on The Stereotype
and it points to a light-hearted
approach to French food that knows not
to take itself too seriously Monaco’s
Seattle correspondent Gregory Scruggs
took a seat at l and he brings us this
report bonjour how’s it going you must
be Zach hey GRE nice to meet you welcome
in please join
me my name is Zach Overman I am the
co-owner of luron restaurant and barbon
here in Seattle I like to think of them
as sort of northern and southern France
luron is our restaurant that’s been open
for almost 8 years now we’ve had barbon
open for about 6 months and is that much
more casual a wine bar sort of more
southern France and Northern Spain
barbon kind of does a little bit of
everything we’ve got our Market here
which has tons of organic and biodynamic
wine we have sandwiches to go we have a
ton of cheese it’s a specialty French
products we’re selling records because
why
not so it functions sort of as an All
Day Cafe as well as more of a wine bar
at night this is sort of our imagine
French Nostalgia bar definitely tapping
back into our love of musican movies
from the 90s when we were coming of age
sadly a very long time ago now so yeah
it’s trying to trying to keep Barb on
much more casual much more fun very low
stakes and just like a fun room to hang
out discover things there’s something
everywhere you look in here which I love
lots of little hidden Easter eggs and
goodies all over the place I mean I see
everything from Tes mode to S gainsborg
being hyped on the walls here this kind
of blending of cultural influences our
wholeo is not trying to be authentically
French at all but sort of taking those
influences that we love from France and
definitely filtering them through our
lens and our experience where did this
love affair begin and what inspired you
to bring an interpretation of French
food and drink to this side of the
continent I’ve been a Fran ofile for a
long time my first trip to France was
actually my honeymoon my wife and I went
to uh the first city we stepped foot in
was SEMO so we were walking around this
ancient Walt City and drove around the
coast of Britney which actually is like
shockingly like the Pacific Northwest
feel a real a real analog between that
place and here and the cold water and
the rain and the fog and it just
feels I felt very at home
there yeah we just drove around and ate
amazing shellfish there were these women
in kall just shuing oysters on the beach
with these giant knuckly gnarled hands
like fastest guns in the west you know
I’ve never seen somebody shuck and
oyster that quickly and that well they
were born to do it and if there’s ever
been a a moment of experiencing terroir
or marir I guess like that was it you
eat the oyster looking at the oyster
beds that was a a turning point for sure
these restaurants are what you once
described in an advertisement as
frenchish I mean we’re not talking l in
Paris where if anyone were to tweak the
recipe for the canar LA there would be
riots in the streets so how do you
interpret the vast world of French
gastronomy
for both this audience and this set of
ingredients you have access to here in
the Northwest for so many Americans
French dining just conjures white
tablecloths and stuffy waiters and
pretentious wine service and that’s just
not what we’re about you know food
should be enjoyable you should go to a
restaurant and have a good time I think
the music should be loud there should be
wine spilled on the table people should
be eating off each other’s plates and so
we’re taking French technique and French
products but we’re not bringing that
sort of
imagined fine dining Vibe like the best
meals I’ve had in France are in wine
bars not fancy restaurants so what then
ultimately ends up on the menu of a
restaurant that is not trying to emulate
French fine dining but still capture the
best of French Gastronomy in a more
casual setting so I think what we do
really well here is
filter the amazing Bounty of products we
have in the Pacific Northwest through
this sort of French lens but we’re not
we’re not beholden to very
strict ideas about what French food is
JJ and Holly are executive chef and Chef
Cuisine are really great at sort of
interpreting French technique and taking
classic dishes and twisting them and
adapting them for American pallets
refining them a little bit trashing them
up a little bit if necessary fried sweet
breads are basically like delicious
little chicken nuggets at lisan right
now with espet barbecue sauce so we can
take something fancy and make it fun we
can take a very rustic traditional dish
from the Jura sted chicken with moral
mushrooms and Von cream and really
refine that over here with Pacific
Northwest morels wine from the Jura and
just a beautifully roasted chicken so
where you would have a stew you’ve got a
beautiful half chicken on a on a plate
so it’s just a a synthesis of of all
those things it’s beautiful Pacific
Northwest sourcing and French technique
and adapting some classic French dishes
there’s endless bottles of wine you
could fill aav up to the ceiling just
with the the volume you know the size of
this space you have to make selections
how do you do it and what’s on the menu
yeah
so all of our wine is natural wine which
I think a lot of people are using that
term as like a flaw now and part of our
mission here is to show people that it’s
that’s not the case natural wine is just
the production method it’s not a profile
so our entire list goes from incredible
clean classic beautiful wines that you
would never know were unsulfured or
grown organically that you would find on
any very traditional wine list in Paris
alongside really funky fuzzy weird stuff
and it’s the whole gamut and I think
that’s what’s beautiful about this
category of wine is we’ve got something
for everybody right now we really do
it’s just about finding the right bottle
the bar menu does not it may begin with
wine but it definitely doesn’t end with
wine no we have have so much Brandy
specifically at luron we have I think we
have the biggest Brandy collection in
Washington by
far it’s our favorite you know it’s an
Agricultural Product that’s distilled so
aranyak from the southwest conac
Calvados from Normandy up in the north
it is around it’s in the food it’s in
the cocktails it’s served on its own
after dinner yeah we really love it
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thanks Gregory and that’s all for this
edition of the menu remember that we are
back with a new episode again on Friday
at 2000 London time that’s a midday in
San Francisco also don’t forget to tune
in to our spin-off show food
neighborhoods for a tour of some of the
world’s tastiest destinations I am Kella
this program was produced by Monica Lis
and our son Engineers with Mariel Bon
and Finn Simons thanks for listening and
until next week
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