Wine-Searcher’s Wine Director, David Allen MW, tastes an orange wine, a dry Muscat, made in the Roussillon region using skin contact – Domaine Gauby’s Jasse Cotes Catalanes 2020
Located in the Roussillon region of southern France, Domaine Gauby is situated 20 km (12 miles) northwest of Perpignan, just outside the village of Calce.
The domaine came to prominence under Gérard Gauby, who took over in 1985, and began to bottle his own wines which were previously sold off in bulk to the local cooperative. The estate is often credited with singlehandedly putting the Roussillon region on the radar of wine enthusiasts around the world.
The estate grows Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre for red wines made under the Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOC/AOP. Muntada, the flagship cuvée, is made from the best plots on the estate. Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Macabeu and others are cultivated for the white wines, which are classified as IGP Côtes Catalanes.
The property extends to around 85 hectares (210 acres), just over half of which are planted with vines. Many of the vines are exceptionally old – some with as much as 120 years of age.
The soils are predominantly chalky, which is reflected in the name of the local village, Calce (from the same root as “calcareous”).
In the winery, Gauby use natural yeasts and there is no chaptalization, acidification, fining or filtration. Cement and wooden vats are used for fermentations and red wines age in old wooden casks.
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