The region of Monbazillac is located in the south-west of France, not far from Bordeaux. Best known for it’s sweet wines, it is sometimes considered the ‘poor’ cousin of the more-famous Sauternes….’poor’ only due to the bargain prices for these incredible wines.
Without doubt, the greatest estate in the region is Grande Maison, established in 1990, and run by the jovial owner/winemaker – Thierry Despres. The sweet Monbazillac’s are Thierry’s pride and joy, although his dry whites and reds from the Bergerac appellation are equally outstanding. Since arriving at Grande Maison, a 13th century building, he has completely renovated both the vineyards and the buildings.
Grande Maison was an organic pioneer in Monbazillac, farming according to organic and biodynamic principles in the early 1990s. The estate’s 35 acres of vineyards mostly face full south; a small lake (created by an earlier owner) helps to protect against spring frosts, moderate summer temperatures and encourage the development of botrytis, or noble rot, once grapes are ripe. Soils combine limestone and clay, with some flint—unique in the region. Facing south, these organically raised Semillion, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle vines run down a gentle slope to the heart of the estate, and produce stunning wines, both dry and sweet.
This is a hedonistic example of what the white wines of Bordeaux can look like – subtly tropical fruit with grassy edges, surrounded by a rich robe of creamy oak. Plenty of power but also acidity – very well balanced and focussed, with the extra years of aging providing complexity and detail.
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