Wind your way up from the coast of Provence into the fields of lavender and grains and where the wonderful subtle flavors and aromas of Alpes-de-Haute Provence of wild thyme, rosemary and lavender are carried on the crystal clear breezes that waft off the snow covered peaks of the Alps themselves, and you will never want to leave!
Here, in a small village off the autoroute to Sisteron not far from Digne, La Bonne Etape, a former poste house, is an ideal and charming stop over or destination in itself of top quality, a member of the prestigious Relais et Chateaux group. The family Gleize (father, Pierre, and son, Jany, and Mom too) are not only delightful and welcoming hosts but for over 40 years have together created a cuisine inspired by the tastes of the best of local ingredients for the Restaurant La Bonne Etape. It is “classic modern” but Provençal to the core. The rooms and suites are charming, many with their own private garden terraces or balconies. They are decorated with great taste and filled with both antiques and modern touches. Here you will feel part of the great tapestry of Provence.
The quality of the cuisine, excellent, and this despite the pressures of an adverse economy and they have added a charming bistro, “Au Goût du Jour” for those wanting cuisine filled with the famous Gleize touch but less fancy and easier on the purse. Jany Gleize is now the Executive Chef and owner and is a Michelin starred chef.
The rooms in this old post house, are ancient and charming. The Gleizes have refurbished the old structure over the years and modernized the infrastructure but breathed life back into the interiors with country Provençal fabrics, antiques and warm lighting. The property is small, but they have created an exquisite garden which leads down to the swimming pool and the gravel works that used to be across the street when we first visited in the mid 1980’s is gone, replaced with a very nice car park for the hotel with bamboo shaded stalls.
The wood paneled dining room is sedate and old world as are most of the other public and private rooms. The frayed nerves of traveler’s from near and far ease as the high beamed ceilings, carpets and tables set far enough apart for discrete conversation to take place without the echoing of many of today’s establishments allow the visitor to relax.
This old post house lies on the route from Nice to Grenoble via Gap. The new freeway bypasses the village of Chateau Arnoux, home to La Bonne Etape so the roar of traffic is even further diminished. But I would be a shame to speed past this establishment without taking the time to enjoy the food and the ambiance.
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