2013 Le Chiuse, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

2013 was a cooler vintage. I like how the cool vintages can age into aromatic wines. This one has Intense aroma wafting from the glass- complex notes of red cherry, oregano, balsamico, cigar, saddle leather, coffee, bay leaf, and mocha. Good cherry concentration on the palate balanced by soft tannins and medium plus acidity. The finish is long. Their Riserva is released after 10 years aging.

Le Chiuse is a small winery in the north of Montalcino on the northeast face of the highly regarded Montosoli. It has only about 8 HA of vines that are planted at 300m to 500m, producing ~30,000 bottles with only 18,000 to Brunello. The altitude and north east exposure keeps acidity high and allows the grapes to develop complexity. Soils also help, a varied mix with some calcareous and sandstone that seem to give the wines aromatic lift. As unknown as Le Chiuse is to most foreign drinkers, when you mention it to locals, even to estates like Poggio di Sotto, the reaction is one of high praise. People acknowledge the estate’s prime location and respect that the family has stayed small and focused on quality.

In drinking Sangiovese for the last week I’ve come to appreciate how delicate the grape is. It doesn’t take much to push it into over ripeness or to austere tannins. In some cases this happens because of vintage, or because a less than ideal site, or just because misguided winemaking. The quality of Montalcino winemaking in general is high but there are examples of some trying to get too big or appeal to a broader market, which in my opinion the grape is uncooperative with.

The last interesting point to make is Le Chiuse was actually part of the Biondi-Santi family and supplied the grapes for its Riserva wine before ultimately becoming its own. This is probably another reason locals recognize it with high praise.

I enjoyed this at Campo del Drago in Montalcino.