At a dinner celebrating two birthdays last month, we did a nice vertical of the 88 and 91 Margaux vintages with a bonus 95 Ausone.
The 88 Margaux was popped and poured. A fine alluring nose of blueberries, ripe blackberries, some dried strawberries, a touch of eucalyptus, and a lot of sous bois which quickly blew off. Palate was wonderfully elegant and silky – a lovely blend of redcurrants, blueberries, a touch of strawberries, with quite a bit of smoke on the finish. Body was medium with finely resolved tannins and medium-low acidity. An absolute pleasure to drink – still plenty of fruit, layered, complex, with an amazing finish of over a minute.
The 91 Margaux was decanted for 30 minutes. Nose was immediately grassy with green bell peppers, green tomatoes, tobacco leaf, and dried mushrooms, followed by red plums and dark cherries. Green bell peppers were also on the palate, accompanied by black plums and a touch of blackcurrants. Mouthfeel was more structured than the 88, and interestingly more elegant and velvety. Similarly medium-bodied, it had medium-plus tannins that were nicely integrated, and acidity was lighter than the 88’s. The finish was lengthy, but only half that of its older sister. A simply outstanding wine for a difficult vintage.
We ended with the 95 Ausone which was decanted for 1.5 hours. The nose gave blackcurrants, black and red plums, herbaceous scents of bell peppers and tomato leaf, with a hint of leather, soy sauce, and meat. For a wine of this age, it smelled unexpectedly primary and fresh. Juicy black and red plums filled the palate which was slightly savoury and had a touch of mint at the end. This was medium-bodied with medium-plus tannins that were still quite grippy, with low acidity. Nice lengthy finish of around 20 seconds.
My wine of the night was the 88 Margaux by a distance. Its complexity and balance were superior to the others, and that marvellous long finish was unparalleled. Everyone went home happy and spoilt. A wonderful night.
by mrchuan