Another review of a single producer’s wines, I was able to grab some of Jean-Francois Ganevat’s negociant expressions where he has sourced grapes from other regions due to poor harvests in Jura. I don’t personally drink much Jura, natural or conventional but I know the alchemy that Ganevat is said to perform. So without further ado:
**Blanc Agite, Jean-Francois Ganevat:** 50% Chardonnay, 50% Savagnin, skin macerated, vinified ouillé, meaning that barrels were topped up regularly to prevent oxidation. Purchased from Brooklyn Wine Exchange in Brooklyn.
Aromas of tart Granny Smith apples, morning dew, fresh juicy pineapple, lemon zest, and fleshy white grapefruit. Wow, it’s zinging my nose with tons of kinetic forward fruit character, I would say it’s electric. On the palate, medium to high acid, the skin maceration is well managed here where it’s a touch effervescent and tingling on the tongue. In terms of flavors, tart lemonade, apple cider vinegar, saltwater breezes, briny oyster shells, and blanched almonds. The finish is very saline driven, medium length here. As someone who doesn’t drink much Jura or Jura blends, it feels like I’m totally missing out but this is why I am reviewing one of Jura’s greatest talents.
**Cuvee Madelon, Jean-Francois Ganevat:** 50% to 60% Gamay from Morgon blended with 40% to 50% Indigenous Jura Varieties, 60–80-year-old vines, whole cluster fermentation, aged for 10 months in foudre. Purchased from Astor Wines & Spirits in Manhattan (my workplace).
This wine is very much dominated by the Gamay here. It is dark fruited as all hell, we’re talking black cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, barnyardy funk, a very deep and evocative experience. On the palate, it is very glou glou for sure with well extracted fruit. The flavors come off as brandied cherries, red currant, and glossy raspberries. Medium to high acid, low tannins, it isn’t crushable like your typical glou glou wine. It’s refined yet a touch more body that demands more attentiveness, it’s just so sultry and rich.
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These were very much delectable, it’s insane how one producer can keep track of so many different expressions and make them all come out with poise, richness and character. The Blanc was zingy and very acid driven with great saline and tropical notes. The Cuvee Madelon did taste very much more heavy on the Gamay but I think my inexperience with Jura’s own varietals did not allow me to capture the full picture of this wine. Still enjoyed it nonetheless. They are some pricey wines for sure but I thought it was a good experience personally 🙂
Erriberri
Might be an unpopular opinion but I find his lower tiered offerings like both of these bottles to be overpriced for what they are. Can find a lot better options for cheaper.
Madelon was just a slightly frizzante gamay. Well done but nothing special and can find plenty of gamay for half the price that drinks as well if not better. Kopines is another good example of ok but nothing worth the price tag – at least in the US
komos_
Did you find these wines needed to open up? Just curious as get mixed advice about how to prepare them (especially the reds).
3 Comments
Another review of a single producer’s wines, I was able to grab some of Jean-Francois Ganevat’s negociant expressions where he has sourced grapes from other regions due to poor harvests in Jura. I don’t personally drink much Jura, natural or conventional but I know the alchemy that Ganevat is said to perform. So without further ado:
**Blanc Agite, Jean-Francois Ganevat:** 50% Chardonnay, 50% Savagnin, skin macerated, vinified ouillé, meaning that barrels were topped up regularly to prevent oxidation. Purchased from Brooklyn Wine Exchange in Brooklyn.
Aromas of tart Granny Smith apples, morning dew, fresh juicy pineapple, lemon zest, and fleshy white grapefruit. Wow, it’s zinging my nose with tons of kinetic forward fruit character, I would say it’s electric. On the palate, medium to high acid, the skin maceration is well managed here where it’s a touch effervescent and tingling on the tongue. In terms of flavors, tart lemonade, apple cider vinegar, saltwater breezes, briny oyster shells, and blanched almonds. The finish is very saline driven, medium length here. As someone who doesn’t drink much Jura or Jura blends, it feels like I’m totally missing out but this is why I am reviewing one of Jura’s greatest talents.
**Cuvee Madelon, Jean-Francois Ganevat:** 50% to 60% Gamay from Morgon blended with 40% to 50% Indigenous Jura Varieties, 60–80-year-old vines, whole cluster fermentation, aged for 10 months in foudre. Purchased from Astor Wines & Spirits in Manhattan (my workplace).
This wine is very much dominated by the Gamay here. It is dark fruited as all hell, we’re talking black cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, barnyardy funk, a very deep and evocative experience. On the palate, it is very glou glou for sure with well extracted fruit. The flavors come off as brandied cherries, red currant, and glossy raspberries. Medium to high acid, low tannins, it isn’t crushable like your typical glou glou wine. It’s refined yet a touch more body that demands more attentiveness, it’s just so sultry and rich.
—
These were very much delectable, it’s insane how one producer can keep track of so many different expressions and make them all come out with poise, richness and character. The Blanc was zingy and very acid driven with great saline and tropical notes. The Cuvee Madelon did taste very much more heavy on the Gamay but I think my inexperience with Jura’s own varietals did not allow me to capture the full picture of this wine. Still enjoyed it nonetheless. They are some pricey wines for sure but I thought it was a good experience personally 🙂
Might be an unpopular opinion but I find his lower tiered offerings like both of these bottles to be overpriced for what they are. Can find a lot better options for cheaper.
Madelon was just a slightly frizzante gamay. Well done but nothing special and can find plenty of gamay for half the price that drinks as well if not better.
Kopines is another good example of ok but nothing worth the price tag – at least in the US
Did you find these wines needed to open up? Just curious as get mixed advice about how to prepare them (especially the reds).