This was a fascinating study in provenance for me – even accounting for variation in different bottles, corks, and knowing the myriad of things that could impact wines in the years after release – opening my two half bottles of 1998 de Fargues laid bare these differences. One bottle was an ex-Chateau release, imported from their cellars in 2024. The other was a bottle in circulation since the early 2000s – and it was this latter one I opened first. Quick notes on that one – it was far darker than the ex-Chateau, and well into tertiary elements – more nuttiness, caramel, and honey, barely any fruit at all. But for this review, I'll explore the ex-Chateau bottle, which was just an amazing example of the work done at de Fargues by the Lur Saluces family. If you know your Sauternes history, I won't expand further, but this is amazing quality wine from a family famed for their work with d'Yquem.
Stored at 45, popped and poured with an Ah-so. The cork came out wholly intact and in fantastic condition. Drank over five days. Wonderful color, still a deep gold, bronze in hue.
On the nose, despite its age, still a bevy of tropical fruits – dried mango, roasted pineapple, a faint bit of apricot and peach. Further into the glass, those wonderful botrytis notes emerge – honey, caramel – followed by some wonderful tertiary notes – nuttiness, burnt sugar, pie crust, flan. It's a wonderful, complex blend of fruit and pastry that has you smelling more than tasting!
On the palate, great mouthfeel – on the light side of medium bodied, with a strong acidity and strong sweetness in perfect balance – no cloying sensation, every element in harmony. The first glass on day one had primarily fruit flavors – by day five, the fruit had gone and it was all pastries, caramel, and hazelnut. It's a spectacular sensation, up there with the best Sauternes I've ever had around this age – a 2003 Lafaurie-Peyraguey. A lasting finish full of flavor. This is still in a fantastic window with that blend of primary/tertiary, I could easily see this going to 2030.
Fortunately, my local shop still has several more ex-Chateau 98s available, along with some 2006 – they'll be seeing me shortly to stock up further. It's as close to d'Yquem as I can consistently get, and along with Suduiraut and Lafaurie-Peyraguey, one of my favorite Sauternes producers. Highly recommended to track down!
by JJxiv15